With in improving forecast as the weekend neared, we were enthusiastic about the meet.
After a foggy start to the Saturday, splendid conditions tempted 3 parties onto the Gogarth sea cliffs.
Mike and Jo went for the classic HVS traverse of Dream of White Horses, enduring long waits as the party in front attempted knitting with their ropes, and feeling the draught from the helicopter as it rescued a climber from a route just out of the zawn. Fortunately he was not badly hurt – and Mike and Jo didn’t have any shoes blown into the sea by the chopper – unlike one climber on the cliff. On sea cliffs it’s often wise to clip everything into something immoveable.
Meanwhile on Castell Helen, Richard and Lou had a fine 3-pitch VS adventure on Lighthouse Arete, and Ed and Ben did a more direct ascent up the wall and through the overlap, roughly on the line of Blanco, an easy HVS.
Su, Clare and Andy opted for Hollyhead mountain, where everyone headed on the Sunday – wind and the threat of rain made climbing on Gogarth seem a risky option.

Waiting to ab into Castell Helen

Rich, Ben and a fugitive from justice waiting to ab into Castell Helen

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Classic seacliff climbing. Ben on Blanco HVS 5a at Castell Helen, Gogarth, Anglesey

 

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Ben climbing on Blanco HVS 5a at Castell Helen, Gogarth, Anglesey

 

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Rich leading up Lighthouse Arete VS 4c with Lou belaying at Castell Helen, Gogarth, Anglesey

 

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Lou finishing the climbing on pitch 2 of Lighthouse Arete at Castell Helen, Gogarth, Anglesey